Coffee is more than just a morning pick-me-up; it has a complex and often troubling story. Behind the rich aroma and comforting taste lies a harsh reality related to how coffee beans are produced, especially in third-world countries. While we savor our cups, many coffee workers face exploitation and human rights abuses that are often unnoticed.
This post aims to bring to light the harsh realities surrounding coffee bean cultivation, focusing on the workers’ struggles, economic challenges, and societal impacts connected to the coffee supply chain.
The Labor Behind Coffee Production
In coffee-producing countries like Colombia, Ethiopia, and Honduras, manual labor is the backbone of the industry. Many workers endure poor working conditions that perpetuate cycles of poverty.
Smallholder farmers often receive less than the minimum living wage, struggling to afford basic necessities. For example, a coffee farmer in Honduras may earn approximately $0.20 per pound of coffee, while the cost of living is significantly higher. In some instances, workers are caught in cycles of debt, akin to modern-day slavery, forced to work in harsh environments without fair pay.
Labor laws often do not protect these workers, exposing them to extreme conditions. They frequently endure long hours in heat, resulting in health issues such as dehydration and heat stroke. For instance, studies show that coffee harvesters in Colombia can work over 12 hours a day during the peak season, with minimal breaks for rest and hydration.
The back-breaking work that goes into coffee production is largely hidden from consumers, overshadowed by marketing messages that highlight high-quality beans and craftsmanship.
The Economic Downfall of Coffee Farmers
While consumers enjoy affordable coffee, the economic picture for many farmers is grim. The global coffee market is dominated by large corporations that purchase beans at meager prices, often leaving farmers with only 10-20% of the retail price. For instance, a 2019 report noted that the average price a farmer receives for coffee can be as low as $1.50 per pound, while a cup of coffee at a café can cost over $3.
Price fluctuations can spell disaster for coffee farmers, who typically lack financial stability. When market prices drop, many farmers cannot afford essential expenses like food and school fees for their children. Furthermore, reliance on coffee monoculture limits farmers’ economic opportunities, poses risks to their livelihoods, and harms the environment—leading to soil depletion and loss of biodiversity.
Little bit about the Coffee Geopolitics:
Surprisingly the beans coffee beans grows in the mostly in third world countries but the most famous brands are European. It is a sad realities of may third world naturally riche resources and plantation but they remain the net exporters of their natural resources with beneficiation.
The world famous brands like Lavazza, illy, Doug Egbert. Jacobs and Nestle does not have any coffee growing farms as such but they dominate the world coffee market internationally. The disparity in a coffee green bean export price to finished coffee roasted beans is a huge gulf. In the recent years there many admirable initiatives and projects have been introduced by European companies to address the current gap but the outcomes and impacts still be measured and see.
The following slides with maps and graphs will illustrate such stark realities to many consumers of the coffee as where the coffee grown, value-added (beneficiated) and sold.
South Africa Coffee cultivation History:
Coffee cultivation was introduced to the coastal region of Natal in 1854 by British and European settlers who had brought it over from Bourbon Island. This area boasted fertile soils, an agreeable climate, and regular rainfall that were all ideal for growing different cash crops. Over several years, British settlers conducted trials on many agricultural products such as tea, arrowroot, sugarcane along with coffee production which initially proved successful; eventually occupying up to 2000 hectares of land by the 1870s. Despite the progress made in coffee cultivation, the 1870s marked a period of devastation as an international spread of coffee leaf rust emerged. As a result, sugarcane began to gain prominence over coffee farming. The decade's conclusion witnessed numerous estates being destroyed entirely due to various factors such as inadequate expertise and inappropriate agricultural practices by farmers alongside pests and diseases that plagued unsuitable soil conditions predominantly responsible for this calamity.
Although on a much smaller scale, coffee production emerged again in the mid-1900s. Predominantly located in Limpopo's Northern province were numerous plantations known to exist. In the 1960s when sugarcane quotas of South Africa lowered, an alternate product was proposed by a researcher who suggested producing coffee instead. Following his recommendation as well as for experimental purposes, two Kenyan varieties SL28 and SL34 along with small batches of other varied coffees were imported into South Africa.
During its prime, South Africa's yearly coffee production ranged from 1500 to 2000 tons. In the vicinity of the 1970s, elevated global coffee prices and unrest in South African politics led their government to consider expanding their cultivation efforts. By ten years later, approximately 1525 hectares had been sown with Arabica plants while additional grounds were designated for farming use. As of 1987, a total output of roughly1800 tons was recorded which projected an increase up to more than 67000 tons by year end-2000 besides this optimistic plan; however, it did not come into fruition as numerous facets such a scostly labor expenses, insect infestations, disease outbreaks, and diminishing international market rates rendered few plantations able to sustainably generate profit.
Thus, a considerable amount of establishments gradually shut down over time due these factors mentioned above. The initial projection never became reality for most firms that acquired approval licenses and launched initiatives for planting rivaling other prominent countries' outputs levels worldwide at peak period since multiple obstacles impaired stable profitability eventually leading to major closures among grower estates over several years elapsed since starting operations at these locations until the present day. Currently, coffee cultivation in South Africa occupies a mere 200 hectares of land. Nevertheless, there has been surging attention towards the production of this beverage due to some regions presenting optimal conditions for growth and high internal consumption rates. In response, several farms have incorporated growing coffee into their existing crop schemes.
Coffee farming in South Africa:
Coffee production in South Africa is limited to a select number of commercial farms. To maintain profitability, these farms rely on revenue from coffee shops, tours and gift shops located onsite. Moreover, most of them resort to importing and roasting green coffee beans sourced from other countries. Some notable examples include the Beaver Creek Coffee Estate situated in KwaZulu-Natal along with Sabie Valley Coffee Farm located in Mpumalanga - both among the country's oldest operating since South African coffee was flourishing during the 1980s decade. Other well-established producers such as Assagay Coffee Farm have been operational for almost three decades now- established around 1991. Many new entrants into this industry came up recently due to an increase in interest shown towards cultivating coffee locally across SA.
The Impact of Certification Labels
To combat exploitation, many consumers seek certification labels like Fair Trade, Rainforest Alliance, and Organic, aiming to guarantee farmers a better price and promote sustainable farming practices.
However, the effectiveness of these certification programs can be limited. The cost to achieve and maintain certification might be out of reach for many smallholder farmers. According to the Fair Trade Foundation, while certified farmers earn up to 25% more than their non-certified counterparts, many still struggle to meet certification requirements due to financial barriers.
Additionally, the complexity of sourcing means many consumers lack awareness about where their coffee comes from, making it challenging to choose ethically sourced products. While buying certified coffee can yield positive change, it is crucial to recognize that it does not solve the larger systemic issues afflicting coffee farmers.
The Role of Consumers
Addressing exploitation in the coffee industry is not solely the responsibility of farmers or corporations. Consumers too play a vital role in this dynamic. By choosing ethically sourced coffee and supporting local brands, consumers can help uplift communities in need.
One essential step is to engage with brands that practice transparency in their sourcing. Consumers should ask questions about the coffee's origin and the welfare of the farmers involved. Social media is a valuable tool for raising awareness about these issues. By discussing fair practices online, consumers can put pressure on brands to treat workers justly.
For example, organizations like Coffee Kids provide platforms for consumers to connect directly with coffee farmers, creating a personal investment in fair trade practices.
Steps Towards Change
To foster meaningful change in the coffee industry, collective action from consumers, producers, and corporations is needed. Here are some steps to consider:
Support Fair Trade Practices: Look for Fair Trade certified products to promote fair trading relationships and better prices for farmers.
Advocate for Transparency: Encourage brands to disclose their supply chain details, holding them accountable for farming and labor practices.
Educate Others: Share information about coffee exploitation with friends and family to create a larger awareness network focused on ethical consumption.
Encourage Legislative Action: Advocate for policies that protect workers' rights and ensure fair wages in coffee-producing countries.
Foster Sustainable Practices: Support initiatives that promote sustainable agriculture and empower local farmers to diversify their crops.
Moving Forward Together
Coffee is a beloved global beverage, but we must acknowledge the sacrifices made by countless farmers who produce it. The exploitation of coffee workers is a pressing issue that demands our attention.
By making informed purchasing decisions and advocating for ethical practices, consumers can inspire a shift toward a more equitable coffee industry. Let’s turn our love for coffee into a commitment to responsibility, ensuring every sip honors the hard work and determination of those who cultivate it.
By becoming conscious drinkers, we can help shine a light on the hidden truths of coffee cultivation and work toward a future where all contributors to this cherished industry are respected and compensated fairly.
Curated by: Salman Khan.
This extract from Khan's in-depth coffee consumer survey in South Africa covering over 100 pages with fascinating fact and figures. To buy a copy of the full survey, narrative and coffee industry comments on report please contact Salman on salkhan1@yahoo.com
Salman Khan.
Barista and Coffee judges, food and drink anthropologist and culinary art educator. He holds MA in Political Science and international affairs and currently a PhD scholar at UJ.
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